By Nicole Gill Council, Council Magazine

Despite the impact on the restaurant industry in 2020, the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington still announced its annual RAMMY Award winners. The awards, handed out in September, honored work in 2019, but the association “recognized that 2020 posed unique challenges that the industry continues to navigate,” RAMW said in a news release announcing the winners.

Chef David Deshaies, of Unconventional Diner, earned the RAMMY for chef of the year. Deshaies’ history in Washington, D.C., began when he was a line cook for famed Chef Michel Richard. He remembers when Richard earned this recognition.

“I never dreamed it would one day be bestowed on me. I’m so humbled to receive the award knowing the greats that have won before me and all the superb talent in D.C. today,” said Deshaies.

For Deshaies and his team at Unconventional Diner, the community’s support has been one of the biggest lessons during the pandemic.

““The neighborhood’s outpouring of support was amazing, with many folks from Shaw ordering daily.””

— Chef David Deshaies

Unconventional Diner opened in 2017 inside the Walter E. Washington Convention Center. Deshaies’ wife, Ana, is the restaurant’s pastry chef. Unconventional Diner serves what it describes as “modern comfort food.” Its menu includes baked Brie; chicken and waffles, a cheddar-chive cornbread waffle served with habanero butter and granny gravy; crab linguini of squid ink pasta, fennel, celery and lemon; and “French dip” pappardelle of flank, mushrooms, garlic chips, peas and horseradish cream; among other dishes.

The Peking duck confit takes a different approach than the traditional duck confit. Deshaies describes making it more contemporary by preparing it in the Peking duck style. It’s served with bao buns, pickled Fresno peppers, hoisin sauce and marinated Korean cucumbers. “It’s a very popular ‘build-your-own’ dish and is very fun to eat,” he said.

Like many restaurants during the pandemic, Unconventional Diner had to adapt. It offered carryout and delivery options that weren’t originally a part of its business model.

“At the onset of COVID when things were so unsure, we offered take-away meals we referred to as ‘the Stay at Home Supper Club,’ ” Deshaies said. “It allowed us to keep staff employed and feed our community with family-style to-go options.”

Baked brie

Kale nachos

Everything lox

Sweet potato shakshuka

Now that D.C. is open, those options remain. “Before the pandemic, we provided minimal delivery and carry out. It’s now a significant part of our business,” Deshaies said. “We are continuing to implement ways to operate safe, in-restaurant dining while making delivery and pick-up as quick and easy as possible.”

Deshaies arrived in the United States from France 21 years ago and considers D.C. home. “I matured as a cook here and have raised my family here. I’m so proud to call D.C. home, and I really can't think of another place I would want to open my restaurant.”